After I got the first couple of mails regarding princess seams, I decided to post a tutorial here. But then again, I got yet another request from a dear reader on the same, and so I thought to make a 'clearer princess seam post'
The labels 'A', 'E' and 'B' stand for the Apex(nipple or highest point of the bust), Empire (that area under the bust, normally measured from the top of the shoulder to the underbust i.e. where your bra rests), and Bodice (your belly button, normally measured from your shoulder to belly button)
The determined width would read as technical if I explain it, so I would just advice that you add about 12'' to half your bust line measurement and if you are making a dress, add to your hip measurement. If you are bigger however, feel free to add incremental inches so you don't make errors and waste your fabric.
Fold your fabric in two: measurements used here - bust(34), bodice(17 x 26), empire(27)
At the apex, measure out the 'gap' from one apex to the other. Here I used 8'' as that is my perfect fit or rather 'gap' :-) so you are seeing 4.5'' because the extra 0.5'' makes for seam allowance.
At the bodice, measure out the same 'perfect fit gap', here I used 6''. As you
connect the dots from bodice to apex
now, I made different lines so you determine how high or low you would prefer your princess seams. Here we would make use of the lowest one (the curve with the arrows). Note that the lower the curve, the pointier the curve at the apex.
make a 2'' mark from the bodice gap you've created
connect the dots all the way to the apex, following whichever curve you want
cut out...
open up the pieces and join each side piece to the center piece, sew from the bottom upwards.
xoxo,
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