Monday, 20 May 2013

Princess Seam Tutorial

After I got the first couple of mails regarding princess seams, I decided to post a tutorial here. But then again, I got yet another request from a dear reader on the same, and so I thought to make a 'clearer princess seam post'

The labels 'A', 'E' and 'B' stand for the Apex(nipple or highest point of the bust), Empire (that area under the bust, normally measured from the top of the shoulder to the underbust i.e. where your bra rests), and Bodice (your belly button, normally measured from your shoulder to belly button)

 The determined width would read as technical if I explain it, so I would just advice that you add about 12'' to half your bust line measurement and if you are making a dress, add to your hip measurement. If you are bigger however, feel free to add incremental inches so you don't make errors and waste your fabric.

Fold your fabric in two: measurements used here - bust(34), bodice(17 x 26), empire(27)


At the apex, measure out the 'gap' from one apex to the other. Here I used 8'' as that is my perfect fit or rather 'gap' :-) so you are seeing 4.5'' because the extra 0.5'' makes for seam allowance.


At the bodice, measure out the same 'perfect fit gap', here I used 6''. As you 


connect the dots from bodice to apex

now, I made different lines so you determine how high or low you would prefer your princess seams. Here we would make use of the lowest one (the curve with the arrows). Note that the lower the curve, the pointier the curve at the apex.



 make a 2'' mark from the bodice gap you've created



connect the dots all the way to the apex, following whichever curve you want 


cut out...


open up the pieces and join each side piece to the center piece, sew from the bottom upwards.

xoxo, 
Onnari



21 comments:

sarah edegbe said...

Thanks so much! You have made my day! Can wait to start cutting when my baby is asleep !

Anonymous said...

Hello onnari,this is really nice.You should start a fashion school...stepinah

Onnari Osemene said...

you welcome! lol @ fashion school :-)

Anonymous said...

Hi Onnari, just discovered ds post now, its a really nice work u've got going on here. From d tutorial I noticed u measured 2" @ d Bodice, are there any particular measurement for the empire and apex dt 1 is supposed to cut out? Is there any difference between d princess cut and breast cut? If there is, pls can u do me (us) a favour by giving a tutorial on it? Cos I just use idea in carrying dt out (lol)

Onnari Osemene said...

Thanks anon, you might have to let me know what you referring to when you say ' breast cut and princess cut' plus I didn't quite get the apex and empire cut question, do you mind rephrasing so I can provide the answers you looking for?

Onnari Osemene said...

awesome :-)

Anonymous said...

Hi please what is the measurement from the fabric to the apex and from the apex to the empire and from the empire to the bust...I'll be grateful if you explain it.

Onnari Osemene said...

thanks for commenting. From the top of the fabric to the apex(the highest peak of the bust) you measure the length of your shoulder to your apex, and from your apex to your empire or underbust, you measure the length of your shoulder to your underbust (you don't have to measure the distance between your apex and underbust), and for the bodice, you just measure the length of your shoulder to your belly button.
So based on my measurements, gap between top of fabric and apex- 9", gap between apex and empire - 3",gap between empire and bodice - 6" it's all arithmetic and proportions!

zinkat said...

Onnari, I really have you to thank, just discover your blog. Before now I always have problem with d princess seam. I do try and error, but now I get, can't wait to go and try it.

Onnari Osemene said...

Thanks for stopping by zinkat. Do let us know how yours turned out when you're done.

Anonymous said...

My name is mercy tans so much I also make cloths but stil have issues but am working towards it.I have issues wit sleeves I need details on how to make sleeves ,measurement to take to achieve a shirt sleeve,puff,gather etc tans God bless

Nkechi Obinna said...

Thaks a MILLION folds Onnari.
To be sincere, I have always been afraid of spoiling my fabrics in the attempt to use this 'princes cut' so to say, but having SYSTEMATICALLY studied ur Online tutorial on ur blog.
I can boast of giving my ankara fabric such an english mixup(princes cut).more greese to ur elbows...

Onnari Osemene said...

That's wonderful nkechi! Please share photos with us when you're done

Anonymous said...

Hi Onnari, I'm Uzie. This ur post on princess seam will be clearer if the I seee the shoulder. The cut goes up to the top of the fabric, so I'm kinda confused

Onnari Osemene said...

Don't be....after you're done with the princess seams, treat the fabric like a blank canvas and begin marking out ur bodice. You seem confused cos you don't see the neckline and armhole yet.

Anonymous said...

Hi Onnari, have been trying to do this princess seam on my blouse bt am still finding it difficult cutting it out. Kindly explain better by using a normal blouset(not top) with measurement. U may use dis if u don't mind. Breast 35, apex 10, waist length 16, waistline 30 blouse lth 23, Hip 36. I will really appreciate it if u can do cos I promise to post it once am done with it God bless. Jumaisha

Onnari Osemene said...

Hello jumaisha, ok that's fine. I can do that...are u a subscriber to this blog though? U know , only my subscribers can make requests and I oblige :-)

p said...

Hello Onnari, u r really good. Started following ur posts on nairaland until I found myself here. I have a passion for sewing and like u I want to build my self till I become like u...lol. This aside, thanks for making out time to teach us, u have a big heart. I have a question pls, what do u do to the back piece\part of the clothing? Does it also have the princess darts? Same cutting? And also how does the part below the bodice go? Say in the case of gowns and longer tops?

Ahava Stitch It said...

Thanks

Ahava Stitch It said...

Thanks

mary said...

Tanx so much, u've really done a great job. I just stumbled on ur post n i'm glad I did. Pls I want to know if the 2" u removed @ d empire will be done on bot sides cos I noticed u only drafted it out on one side? Tanx n waiting for ur reply pls.